THOUGH Rudyard Kipling lived only five of his 70 years in Lahore, they were the most crucial years of his development as a writer. This rich confection of a city, whose great Mogul buildings and street life evoke the deep hues and sensuality of a miniature painting, was where the teen-aged Kipling cut his teeth as a newspaperman. Lahore provided the setting for some of Kipling’s greatest stories, as well as the raw material for his somewhat misunderstood view of East and West.

Though now obscured as a tourist destination due to its location 15 miles inside Pakistan, Lahore was the heart of Kipling’s India. Between 1882 and 1887, he worked there as the assistant editor of The Civil and Military Gazette, combing the back alleys of the old, walled city for stories and material for his later fiction. Like the Irish street urchin, Kim, the hero of his greatest novel, Kipling used Lahore as a base to explore the rest of the subcontinent.

Armed with the Penguin edition of ”Kim,” I set out for the Lahore Museum, where Kipling’s father, John Lockwood Kipling, had been the curator and where the first scene in ”Kim” takes place. The novel opens with Kim sitting ”astride the gun Zam-Zammah on her brick platform opposite the old Ajaib-Gher - the Wonder House, as the natives call the Lahore Museum.” It was while astride the gun that Kim meets a Tibetan lama, whom the boy then escorts into the Wonder House.

The Zam-Zammah (Urdu for lion’s roar) is known in Lahore as Kim’s gun, and, except for the brick platform that has been replaced by marble, the copper and brass cannon looks exactly as Kipling described it; a massive icon of imperialism over 14 feet long, mounted on wooden wheels that are well over six feet in diameter. And the Wonder House opposite is just that; in my opinion one of the world’s great underrated museums.
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I was born in mid seventies. Which means I grew up in the eighties during General Zia’s era; the Afghan war (part 1), the drugs and kalashnikov culture (the former I never took, the later I was never offered), the danda bardar Punjabi movies, the parda dar PTV, and the extremely conservative, super disciplined, highly strict, boys high schools.

In the nutshell I didn’t quite grow up to begin with… living in the city of Lahore (outside the walls though) during the times when time hardly passed and things hardly happened.

Then in the early nineties I went abroad. A short stint during high school to get accustomed to the rest of the world. Interestingly, as soon as I left Lahore, the city started changing… no wait, it actually started magnifying, electrifying and embracing a major paradigm make-over. And that too at a pretty brisk pace. So it was a fairly different Lahore to which I came back just a few years later. Lahore under full fledged democracy… pseudo nonetheless. At the onset though, it appeared to be a highly corrupt, self centered and unfriendly society trying to make its mark in transparency international reports and through unaccounted for and bizarre series of socio-political and economic events. However a deeper scrutiny revealed a silent transformation towards maturity… and towards modernity. Bit by bit though, and giving way to intense materialism, as a way of side effect.

Flooded with mobile phones (without SMS; they came later… and with incoming call charges), internet and CDs (even DVDs came later), late night hangouts and soft drink sponsored basants, satellite TV (cable came later too) with Indian reality shows that hardly had anything to do with reality, expanding roads, overhead bridges, new buildings, new factories, and what looked like a dusty path towards self attained prosperity. This was Lahore on a bumpy ride… hardly perfect, but better than before… So I imagined.

Then came 2001, and the Afghan War (part 2); this time without drugs and Kalashnikov; and for a while it mattered not much to anyone living here. The city kept flourishing, progressing; new buildings kept popping up, roads kept getting better, neater, cleaner, and larger… and everything kept waking up to life every now and then. But how can there be a war (cold or otherwise) and Pakistan be not involved in it. So it did; and the war actually spilled over to our doorstep… perils of it, this time around, being suicide bombings and terrorism… not sporadic, but very frequent… not fictional, but very real. That coupled with a “crisis of the month” situation did not quite make a decent bed time story. And with time it only got worse. And with more time, it came to the point when everyone I knew had been to at least one place; a building, a road or a mosque, which later-on was subject to a (suicide or otherwise) bomb blast. And everyone I knew, hated the fact that there seemed to be less and less electricity, let alone peace and quiet at either political front, or any other. Pakistan came to be known as the most dangerous place on earth… a title I still disagree with, even though I wouldn’t mind calling it the “most happening” place on earth.

This is pretty much where we stand today.

The reason that I just wrote the above passage was not to repeat what everyone already knows. The reason for writing the above is fairly simple… and personal.

Fairly simple because I grew up in Lahore in the eighties - when time hardly passed and things hardly happened. Now I am here in the late 00s – and the time does pass quickly and things do happen… we seem to have taken a 180 degree turn (or is it 360 degrees?). But isn’t it still the same old dusty path towards what might someday be a stable, self attained, socio-economic prosperity? We still haven’t quite gotten rid of the perils of the old past (the sheer backwardness and the senseless streaks that sometimes overwhelm our society)… So how long would it take us to get rid of the perils of new present and the upcoming future?

And personal because I have just crossed the age of 30. I have to take a decision whether to establish myself for the rest of my life here, or somewhere else. Should I be hopeful as in the nineties, or depressed as in the eighties, or both at the same time? Should I watch with keen interest what unfolds every now and then, or should I just ignore it all?

On 23^rd March, our national day, as I put on the TV, all I see is the flock of gigantic floats, strolling on the roads like mythical creatures, carrying missiles and tanks on their shoulders. What I don’t see is what I want to see. A peaceful, modern, stable and still very happening (without being dangerous) Pakistan. And our cities (whether Lahore, Karachi or Islamabad) that relish culture, creativity and maturity… centers of excellence.

And this is me in an optimistic tone.

UPDATES:

9:00 - Nawaz Sharif addressing masses of his jubilant supporters at Saddar Main Chowk in Lahore Cantt. According to a fellow blogger, Sohaib Athar, Mr.Sharif is to speak at four different stages set up around in the Saddar area.

8:45 - Son Hussain Nawaz and Begum Kulsoom Nawaz arrive at Jatti Umrah

7:45 - Supporters start to arrive at Jatti Umrah, Sharifs’ final destination. Two Hilux vans bring 50-60 people. Security presence still remains thin.
Metroblogger, Usman Latif says Sharifs are expected to arrive at their farm house at about 2:00 - 3:00 am.

7:40 - The Sharifs leave for Data Darbar in a procession from the airport.

7:30 - Nawaz gets emotional and has tears in his eyes. People carry him on shoulders to his car. Nawaz and Shahbaz standing on top of the car, waving to their supporters.

7:26 - Nawaz to reach Data Darbar in the form of a rally while travelling through Saddar, Garrhi Shahu, Dharampura, Shimla Pahari, Gawalmandi, and Bhaati Gate.

7:16 - Massive display of fireworks close to the airport premises.

7:13 - Hussain Nawaz, Kulsoom Nawaz and other members of the family use the ‘Domestic Lounge’ to come out of the airport.

7:08 - Nawaz and Shahbaz come out of the lounge.

Image Source: BBC News

“I’m here to play my role and also to make my own efforts to rid the country of the dictatorship,” Nawaz tells the BBC upon his landing.

7:00 - At least 2,000 PML-N workers including Hamza Shahbaz, Makhdom Javed Hashmi, Raja Zafar-ul-Haq, Zulifqar Khosa, Zafar Jhagrra, former President Rafiq Tarrar, MMA’s Liaqat Baloch reach the ‘International Arrivals’ gate of the airport.

6:55 - Passengers in the Airport’s arrival lounge now. ASF and the police baton-charge supporters of PML-N.

6:35 - Nawaz Sharif’s plane lands at the Allama Iqbal International Airport. The special Boeing 777 was carrying 26 members of the Sharif family.

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Supporters of the Pakistan Muslim League (Nawaz Group) leaders have flocked to Lahore’s Allama Iqbal International Airport to receive the former Prime Minister, Nawaz Sharif, his brother, former Chief Minister Punjab, Shahbaz Sharif and their families.

Television coverage shows policemen beating up supporters while preventing them from entering the airport building. The political celebrities are soon expected to land in Lahore through a chartered Saudi royal plane and are to ride two gifted bulletproof Mercedes’. According to insiders, the Saudi King has even lent them a helicopter to be used in their upcoming election campaigns.

The plane is expected to land at 6:30 pm PST.

Sharifs’ return is significant, however, the overall rise in political temperature of the nation has largely remained insignificant. One of our fellow Metrobloggers, Usman Latif, who is on scene at the family farm-house of the Sharifs at Jatti Umrah, describes the reception as missing any fervor. This may largely be attributed to the fact that many party workers have been arrested and the provincial government, despite giving the Sharifs a free-hand to return, has asked them not to take out a rally on return.

According to Usman there are no security arrangements by the Government and almost the entire complex lacks the presence of any proper Muslim League figure. Absence of the common man and media at Jatti Umrah resonates a feeling that Sharifs might not be able to regain what they have lost and have been missing during the last seven years…

Specialty of Lahori Weekend, Floodlight tape ball Cricket Matches that one can observe on the streets.
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Horse ride for 50 Rs. per round@Qaddafi Stadium.., a knight’s weekend ride :)
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Outside Coffee, Tea and Company@last Saturday, when emergency was imposed, 2 a.m.
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Coffee buffs@CTC, tonight, 12:30 a.m. :)

Just saw this picture in Dawn and I’m totally disgusted by the so-called humanity (even if some is left in us). You don’t have to go somewhere special to see such incidents, specially in cities as Lahore. Animals kept badly is a common sight. The same animals who are extensively used for the business-keeping of their owners.

I know very clearly that we’re not talking about rich and famous here but the poor who may be living hand to mouth. But these very animals are one big source of their food and income too.

Humans can rant as I’m ranting here but what about these poor souls who can’t tell their sufferings or pains. The strangled animal here is visibly in pain. The cruelty with which its been handled and the “tamash-been” around.

Sadly, everything is a TAMASHA for us, humans or animals, whoever be suffering.

Can anything be done for these animals?? Any suggestions??

Image Courtesy: Dawn

Other Donkey related posts …!

Khotaa - Shahi Sawari

Donkey Ride 1

Donkey Ride 2

Khotay Humaray Mulk Kay

LMB’s Ramadan Diary is a short fun page to make your Roza more enjoyable ;)

Dua of the Day:

‘O God! please keep our loved ones and ourselves safe’ Amen!

Today’s To-Do:

Walk a little instead of taking a regular car, bus or rickshaw ride back to home. Physical exertion during fasting works cool in burning a good number of calories

Thought of the Day:

Thank God for giving us everything that millions in the world can not afford to buy or own.

Recipe of the Day: Oven Baked Parmesan French Fries

Summary:

Difficulty: Easy
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Ingredients:

5 russet potatoes
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup grated Parmesan

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

2. Peel potatoes and cut into half-inch thick slices (lengthwise) cut again into 1/2-inch thick fries. Place the potatoes into a pot with cold water and 1 tablespoon of salt. Bring up to a gentle boil and simmer until a paring knife tip goes through easily. Cooked about 3/4 of the way through.

3. Drain carefully and put in a bowl. Add olive oil, 1 tablespoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Toss well and lay out in 1 layer on nonstick baking sheet. Bake until light brown.

4. When brown, sprinkle with Parmesan and continue to bake until well-browned and crispy and the cheese is melted and caramelized, about 6 to 7 more minutes. Remove and let cool for 2 minutes. Serve.

Recipe by Michael Chiarello at Food Network

O how we wished it would never return! The thing we most dreaded is finally here… haunting us, curdling our blood the moment one is handed. *gasp* All those prayers of never having to see one again have been in vain. *sigh*

The new traffic wardens have finally been handed the challan books, we wished, would never see the light of the day. But alas, it wasn’t to be. They’ve already handed over 101 tickets worth Rs. 45,500 on the very first day. The past few months without the worries of being fined were quite relieving - no, that’s an understatement - that time totally rocked! But now… things won’t be the same… but I guess, it’s never too late to mend one’s ways… its about time we start following the traffic rules - we’ve been on a free-ride for far too long.

Rs. 500 for line/lane violation!!! *faints*

Image Credit: Daily Times

While driving through Punjab University - Faisal Town artery this evening, I sharply avoided running over a cute white kitten lying helpless in the middle of the road. My car had not travelled even a kilometre ahead and during the ride there was no discussion other than comments like, ‘Haye be-chara; kitna cute tha naa; what if anyone actually runs over it’. It was then we turned around and commissioned ourselves to ‘Mission Save the Kitten’.

Unfortunately, when we returned to the spot, someone actually had run over it and it was all DEAD! 8′(

Kute Kitty
Source: cutelittlekittens

There are a number of veterinary clinics and doctors specializing in animal health in the city but have you ever seen, read about or even heard of an Animal Orphanage or a Pet Adoption Centre??

What about Animal rights?? Do we have any provision on this in our constitution??

With the number of stray dogs, over-burdened donkeys and helpless kittens running at least into thousands, Lahore desparately needs such centres set up privately or with the help of the Government. It is only then we can avoid running over cute kittens, over loading ‘masoom’ khotas and killing ‘awara’ doggies who we fear due to their aggravated barking & biting capacity.

Among all the 14th August celebrations and festivities, sad incidents of wheelie deaths were reported in the city. According to different news sources at least five boys were killed while many others were injured either minutely or seriously.

Ride it like Rossi: Many younsters fall victim to this thrill on Independence Day each year [Image: Paul's page]

Wheelie killings are no news to Lahore now. It is only that on a special occasion like this, much more ‘manchalay’ come out on the streets and ‘celebrate’ freedom of stunt performance on busy roads causing accidents, inconvenience to commuters and to people travelling with families. Add frequent maachis-bomb blasts (match-stick crackers) around cars clogged on the Mall, Main Boulevard Gulberg or the Canal Road and here we have scared the hell out of kids sitting inside who actually were out to have a good time with their family.

Dawn reports:

At least five young revellers died and more than 180 injured on Tuesday while doing wheelie and driving recklessly on city roads on the eve of Independence Day. The figures were obtained from sources in city hospitals, Edhi centres and Rescue 1122 headquarters.

The areas where most of motorcyclists fell prey to reckless driving and stunts were Lytton Road, Township, Bhatti Gate and Sattokatla. Meanwhile, injuries were reported in almost all city areas, especially The Mall, Canal Road, Jail Road, Ferozpur Road, Gulberg’s main boulevard and Mughalpura-Shalimar Link Road.

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